Mumbai

Melissa Williams

India

Mumbai Art Fair

Hands down the best Indian restaurant in Mumbai. It's also beautifully designed and if you are scared to try street food off the carts, go here for the greatest feeling of satisfaction.

A short trip from the city, these caves date back to more than 3,000 years ago and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hire a guide and take a half-day tour to explore enigmatic Indian sculpture art. Makes for a great break from Mumbai's constant noise of horns!

This historical temple is located in Juhu devoted to Lord Krishna is known for its good vibrations and serenity. If you are visiting around a festival, you could witness a celebration and the prayer which is an experience you must have.

Chor Bazaar literally translates to 'thieves market'. It’s essentially a street market full of vintage gems. From furniture to clothing, to artefacts to stationary to old photo frames, I’ve found some great treasures here which I hold really close to my heart. Every piece here has a rich past and a story to tell.

This is my neighbourhood for the last 6 years in Mumbai and I absolutely won’t live anywhere else in the city (or the world). There are a lot of outsiders (from different parts of the country/world) that live here and it’s full of life with some of the best nightlife options as well as best small coffee shops and eating spots. Walking around the sea promenade around sunset or getting a coffee from a local brewery around the corner are some of the favourite parts of my day. And it makes me feel like I’m home.
Tip: Walk in the sub-lanes of Bandra to discover some of the most beautiful colonial architecture, small catholic houses, all giving a lesson in its history.

This religious-historical site is a small waterbody surrounded by temples. To me, it's an oasis tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the maximum city. I often go here to clear my mind at dusk or dawn.

Go here for the Thackers Special Thali. Local flavours and delicacies are all served in one platter as part of the ritual. Experience a traditional Gujarati vegetarian meal in all its glory! Food coma to follow.

Also known as the art district of Mumbai. It has come up as the centre of everything artsy and trendy. Find here a mix of great cafes, art galleries and small homegrown designer stores. Make a detour to Colaba Causeway (a great place for street shopping!) for a true taste of the old and young Mumbai!

A mosque or dargah located on an islet off the coast of Worli. It’s one of the most recognised and iconic landmarks in Mumbai and has a very charming Islamic architecture. It’s beautifully lit every night and at the end of your visit, tuck into a cup of the iconic fruit cream from Haji Ali Juice Center outside.

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Even though our beloved Mr Kohinoor is not around anymore, Britannia & Co. is still everyone's favourite place for a spot of lunch, and – in my opinion – one of the loveliest surviving Irani cafes. What to order? Well, it must include a fragrant chicken berry pulao, and the excellent Parsi speciality salli boti (lamb curry topped with salli crisp chips). Finish with a refreshing lime soda; "nice and sweet, to beat the heat", as Mr Kohinoor liked to say.

This is most certainly our favourite place for breakfast in Bombay. If you're early, it will be calm and quiet and you can enjoy a sweet chai in peace, followed by a breakfast of their delicious akuri – a simple dish, not unlike scrambled eggs.

Next, onwards to Yazdani for a mid-morning snack. Despite the heat, you must order a piping hot cup of chai, and brun maska to dunk into it. (You could also order the softer bun, but at Yazdani, its crusty counterpart brun is the true champion).

My cousin (and Dishoom co-founder) Shamil actually celebrated his first birthday here! This little cafe is on a corner of King's Circle on the way to South Bombay. The "honey half-fry" is a must-try: eggs only slightly fried on top of bread, and drizzled with honey.

This is such a great place for people watching, as it's a bustling hub for commuters. It dates back to 1914 and is still open. Swing by for a delicious omelette, or bun maska with jam.

We often spend an evening at Leo's, eating plates of chilli cheese toast and drinking plenty of ice-cold Kingfishers.

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The youngest and hippest gallery on the block, Art and Charlie has elevated the cultural scene in Bandra since its inception. With a diverse and regular programme, this gallery has become a social hub for all kinds of art forms and art lovers. Do check their programme of the week before making a visit. P.S. – it also houses the smallest coffee shop in the country!

Possibly the gallery I am most biased towards, run by the kindest Hena Kapadia. The gallery’s focus is on artists with young practices and also actively encourages participation from young collectors. I, too, bought my first artwork from TARQ and am always keenly looking forward to their next show. Their programme is equally engaging and wholesome​​. They also have a very inviting library.

The most prominent gallery of them all, Chemould Prescott Road represents some of the finest artists of the Indian subcontinent. This year, the gallery celebrates its 60th year in September with two thoroughly researched shows on the gallery’s history, curated by the warmest Shaleen Wadhwana.

Run by the sweetest sisters Priya and Amrita, this gallery is situated at a prime location behind The Taj Hotel, from whose window you get a beautiful uninterrupted view of the Gateway of India. The gallery also has the friendliest galerina, Cola. Do swing by for a warm welcoming bark and some truly mesmerising art.

New to the Bombay art scene, this Kolkata gallery brings us some bright contemporary artists and very interestingly curated shows. The gallery is committed to supporting various art practitioners with their thoroughly curated intensive annual programming. Always keep a close eye on what they are up to next.

Jehangir Nicholson Arts Foundation is a testimony to the importance of patronship and provenance. A private collection now housed in Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS), it has some spectacular rotating exhibitions of modern and contemporary art. It is a great one day outing for anybody who would like to immerse themselves in Indian art in a beautiful setting.

The only design-centric gallery in the art scene, this is a result of combined efforts between two powerhouses: the Baromarket and Chatterjee & Lal Gallery. Nestled amidst the heritage precinct of old Portuguese houses Khotachiwadi, this gallery has proved to be a catalyst for the neighbourhood and Indian art and design world alike. You would tend to spend equal amounts of time inside and outside the gallery, given the gorgeous bungalows it surrounds itself with.

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ANEESHA

The timing was a bit unfortunate as Subko opened its doors to people just 3 days before the national lockdown in March. Kudos to the team for staying strong and pressing forward and still being able to build a solid follower base over time. What I really like about this place is that it is the only coffee shop in Bandra that has enough space and a good vibe, apart from the fact that they have partnered with Daniel Trulson from Bread and Chocolate in Auroville, Pondicherry for all the bakery goodies.

I appreciate the fact that the focus likes on export quality coffee from across various estates and regions in India and how they also want to build a creative community shedding light to so many talented people in the country.

This is a neighbourhood bar run by two very dear friends. It came to life in 2013, which was also the year I had moved back home from the UK and was the only place that was playing interesting electronic music. I was so disappointed as I was unable to find any place in Mumbai that played good music and when I stumbled upon The Daily I was so glad! Over time we also threw some of the best parties and although not a big space the compact and tight-knit vibe definitely creates some magic! A venue that has interesting tapped the best of both worlds i.e. food and brunches as well as gigs on weekends - I would highly recommend the Ravioli and The Elysium cocktail, it’s a definite go!

Ah, I have such a special bond with Mount Mary Church. I went to a Convent school and although not Catholic, we always had the option to attend the mass if we wanted to. And I always landed up at church with the rest. I felt at peace every time I visited. My friends and I used to often drive down late at night and go light candles at the altar opposite to the church and sit on the steps, just chatting or in silence. I pick this spot as it has been an integral part of my growing up years and it’s location in a beautiful and quiet neighbourhood adds on to the charm.

People are often surprised when they find out that I dig cricket. Another fact is, I can also throw down some Bollywood moves especially at a wedding. I guess not a lot of them have seen the Indian in me ;). Wankhede stadium has been home to some of the most amazing cricket matches I have witnessed. From One Day Internationals to T20, the electric energy of the crowd in the stadium is unlike any other. Witnessing a cricket game in Mumbai should definitely be on your list.

I went to college in the south of city which was a good 30-40 minute train ride from where I live. There is this old school Iranian ice cream parlour near my college that has been serving ice cream since 1953. The place is known for it’s freshest ice cream biscuits served as a thick slab sandwiched between wafer biscuits and wrapped in thin butter paper. Its most popular flavours, walnut crunch and kesar pista (Pistachios & Saffron) are also layered with bits of walnut and caramelised sugar. It’s a simple and humble looking place just the people who run it and they haven’t toyed around with their prices. This one is a hidden gem everyone must find.

Come here during Ramadhan! My best friend Nishrin is Muslim and every year during Eid she invites her close crew for a lavish Eid dinner. Something I always look forward to and super grateful to her for! Apart from that we also end up driving down to Mohammed Ali Road during Ramadan where you can get amazing street food and desserts. From Kebabs to Biryani to Malpua to Firnis to Nalli Niharis, everything is absolutely delicious.

A viewer will definitely love the old world vibe of this place, especially the beautiful dated ticket windows. Gaiety Galaxy is a G7 multiplex, a place where I have grown up watching movies. Their Samosas are to die for and they used to serve us popcorn from Hoggers Park which had this authentic unique taste that one got addicted to! The most enthusiastic crowd is found here. The crowd doesn’t shy away from hooting welcoming and cheering on their favourite mega star during songs, special entries or major twists/suspense which unfolds. You may even find some dancing away in the aisles. You will find a lot of celebrities dressed down or wearing a Burkha often visit the cinema to see the reaction of the crowd to the film they are starring in. Of course we have a lot of modern multiplexes in Mumbai now but it is always fun to catch a movie here every once in a while!

The best thing that I love about the Dome is the view. It overlooks Marine Drive and is a great place for brunch because you end up spending time until the sun goes down and that is the best part! It is a rooftop restaurant and bar, part of The Intercontinental Hotel on Marine Drive, so it is definitely one of the posh places. From sundowners to a quiet dinner with a loved one to brunch with friends, I definitely rate this as the go to bar if you’re in a good mood to treat yourself :)

As I run a music and culture agency in Mumbai, I have spent a lot of time putting together artist tours. This is a studio space available for rent mainly for movies and ad shoots, but we have organised a couple of events here which have been exceptional and memorable. This includes the likes of Seth Troxler, Parra for Cuva & Juju and Jordash. A lot more heart and effort goes into such events because you are producing them from scratch unlike putting up a club night where a lot of things are already in place. Both have their charm no doubt!

I know I have exceeded beyond 10 spots but I can’t not include The Yoga House in my list. This place conducts yoga classes and has a cafe on top and is the most peaceful place to spend your day. You could work out of here or read a book (I have also ended up taking a nap) that’s how serene this place is. I highly recommend their tartines and the max protein cottage cheese burger! All the health conscious ones are going to love this!

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