South Korea

Seoul

Paola Laf

"People who say that New York never sleeps have clearly not been to 

."

Paola Laf moved to South Korea's capital in 2021, drawn to it's fast-paced energy and booming pop culture. A DJ and radio host drawn to both niche and mainstream areas of culture, she was drawn to the city's unique mixture of underground experimental sounds and polished 

 industry. "I was eager to immerse myself in it," she says. "It feels like the future is unfolding here."

She's made a home for herself in Seoul, now working with an independent label 

. She knows how to thrive in the city's relentless energy, yet also afford herself moments of quiet respite. "The city offers pockets of calm, with nature always within reach that's hard to find elsewhere, and even harder to give up once you've experienced it.," she says. 

Read on for her guide on her adopted home city. 

If K-pop is what led you to Seoul, this is the real deal for music nerds. Established in 1979, this record shop boasts an impressive collection of K-pop albums, including vinyl, spanning decades.

A Seoul nightlife institution probably on everyone's list already but I had to include it anyway. It’s the best club in town - so many legendary DJs, both local and foreign, have played and keep playing here. It's the kind of place where you know the music is going to be good no matter who's on the line-up. 

One of Seoul’s best music venues, hands down. If you’re curious about the local scene, this is where you should go. They regularly host live concerts, but even when it’s just open as a bar the staff plays the best music in the background. I have discovered so much new music there. 

Again, one of Seoul’s best music venues. DIY, experimental, punk-spirited DJ sets and live concerts, where you’ll hear the wildest and most free-spirited mix of genres. Plus, a lovely community of people around it. Shout out to them. 

In all honesty, part of me wanted to gate keep this place, but on the other hand, I wanted to give it a shout-out. It’s a tiny, cosy whiskey bar with a perfect music selection, and I have some cherished memories attached to it.

Quest is the bar of Visla.FM, the radio station where I host my show. A cozy nook in the midst of the craziness of Itaewon where I often found myself shazamming what's playing in the background.

I’m a sucker for panoramic views and stunning sunsets. Comfort has a rooftop that, from afar, looks like a cliff. I often go there to watch the sunset.

A cozy café along the Inwang Mountain Trail that even won an award for Best Public Building and also offers a beautiful view of the city. With no bus stop nearby, you’ll need to walk along the trail for a bit to reach it (unless you take a taxi), but that makes it even better, in my opinion.

My Korean isn’t good enough to read entire books yet, so this is my go-to spot. This bookstore sells second-hand books in English and a few other languages. It has classics, books by Korean authors, and an interesting selection of books on Korea too. Avoid the big chains and support your local store! 

Café Gaeppul is a café, bar, and gallery nestled in the Ihwa Mural Village on the slope of Naksan. While most cafés in Seoul don't sell beer, this one does, on a terrace over a stunning panoramic view stretching across the city, from a new angle.

Buruttrak (부루의 뜨락)

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