A Local's Guide to Biking (Safely) Through Bali
Transport in Bali is on two wheels: motorbikes, scooters, dirt bikes. During Canggu rush hour, the sounds of exhaust pipes ring out over the village, and bikes struggle through heavily packed traffic jams.
Tourists have sought to embrace the local preference for bikes, but have done so recklessly, without permits and under intoxication, making Balinese roads significantly more dangerous.
Studies have found that motorbike accidents account for 80% of total road collisions, with 30% resulting in fatalities. In the space of a month in 2023, tourists were responsible for 170 traffic violations, leading authorities to crack down on spiralling recklesses by prohibiting the unregulated rental of bikes. Under new, stricter rules, renters must have a valid license, carry vehicle registration and wear helmets at all times, however, these measures are rarely enforced. Some local nightclubs don’t let bikers in without helmets in a desperate attempt to reduce drink-driving fatalities.
Yet, Bali by bike can be beautiful—when done right, and responsibly. We talk to adrenaline junkie and self-proclaimed dirt bike lover Kadek Merta Dwi Guna, who is from Singaraja in North Bali, about the island’s bike culture; and the dos and don’ts of biking etiquette.
I always tell my friends three simple rules:
1. Wear a helmet
2. Never ride the bike under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
3. Don’t do stupid things! Always respect others
It feels like everyone has a scooter or bike on the island. What's the cultural significance of biking on the island?
Local people started biking when they were kids. My first time on a bike was when I was 7 years old. My connection to the island is really strong. The more you respect the island, the more the island respects you.
If we look back ten or twenty years Bali’s roads were pretty quiet and chill, but now with so many tourists coming to Bali, it’s packed. There’s traffic at every corner.
Thousands of motorbikes can be found now in a place like Canggu, and reckless tourists make the situation even more fucked up. It’s just so sad to see my island now get fucked up by bad governments who give legal permits to all these investors to destroy so many places. Beautiful nature gets so dirty by stupid people who can’t throw the trash in the right place.
Let’s talk road politics. What are the Bali roads like to navigate? How can people visiting the island stay safe on the roads?
Riding a bike in Bali is not that hard or dangerous if you’re familiar with the roads. For newcomers, it can feel hectic but just remember safety essentials: stay aware, don’t ride crazy, plan where you’re going on Google Maps and 99.9% of the time, you’ll be safe.
Most accidents happen because people are under the influence of alcohol and drugs, and they are reckless on the bike.
You’re part of FED, a collective of Balinese chefs guided by ancestral agricultural practice. Do you do a lot of bike trips together?
Yeah, I was the first! The other guys watched my Instagram stories and saw all the amazing scenery I would visit, so everyone got on board with buying a dirt bike. Nowadays, we usually go on a trip once a week to explore villages, cook outdoors and just enjoy nature.
What type of bike would you recommend for a cross-island bike trip?
If you are good enough to control a manual bike with a clutch, then I always recommend a dirt bike. That way, you can cruise over the hills and get to spots that aren’t otherwise accessible.
If you’re sticking to the road and have no experience on a manual bike, I recommend an automatic scooter like Yamaha Nmas or Xmas.
Have you gone on trips outside of Bali? How do you plan for longer rides?
We just did a trip to Sumbawa Island, about 700km from Bali. It was amazing. I don’t actually spend long planning; as long the bike is in good condition, our mental and body health is good, and we have enough money then we go! Unplanned trips are always the best one!
Can you talk us through the route?
From Seminyak, Bali we headed to the ferry harbour (Padang Bai Harbour). The ferry trip to Lombok takes 5 hours. From there, we continued our ride to the west side of the island (Kayangan Harbor) which took around 2 hours. From there, we took another ferry trip to Sumbawa, which only lasts around 2 hours. At Sumbawa (Pototano Harbour) w tripped to the end of the island in west Sumbawa to a palace called Sape, Bima.
One of my favourite stops on this whole trip was at Dapur Bali Mula in northern Bali. It’s a restaurant run by a Pemangku (priest) called Yudi. Here, almost everything is handmade by his team—the salt is fresh from the Singaraja sea water, and the alcohol “Arak” is like our Bali tequila made from palm water, the sugar is also made from the palm water. It’s the perfect stop.
If you are lucky enough, Chef Yudi will show you to the fisherman's market and he buy 30-100kg tuna, and will make his style of sashimi right in front of you!
Trip essentials?
A water bag is a must. You can get dehydrated on the bike, and you may need to drink as you ride. If it’s rainy season, you should also pack a raincoat. Also, bring a pocket knife; you’ll be biking through the jungle and you never know if you’ll need to cut something!
Read Kadek's guide for best spots to bike in Bali here
