Cyprus

 Krista Papista

Imagine being from a place so paradisiacal that everyone wants a piece of it. Golden beaches, rugged mountains, an island haven in the Eastern Mediterranean. 

The problem? Everyone has taken a piece of it. The exploitation of 

, has been a core theme of her work. Her recent single, '

', is an experimental hazy dream-pop track that tackles the changing landscape of modern day Cyprus, overrun by Russian & Ukrainian oligarch families and money laundering criminals swanning around in luxury properties driving prices and making life unaffordable for locals. Cash-hungry Cypriot hotel owners, politicians and businessmen also profit and encourage these corrupt practices. 

Tourism, as well, is a major issue—with UK and Russian tourists being the core groups that flock to the island during peak summer season. Even so, Krista believes the homeland is one that can be experienced by travellers and should be seen, which is why she's listed some of her favourite spots in Nicosia, the capital of her beautiful, melancholic island.  

"The Cypriot economy always relied on tourism, the tourists are not the issue, the Cypriot hotel owners, politicians and megalomaniac businessmen are," she says. "Tourists should avoid all-inclusive deals with hotels. These packages mean visitors just eating and drinking in the hotel, without  exploring the local culture and food. It's a very bad choice."

Images of Venetian Walls and Athalassa National Park taken by Krista Papista.

An anarchy cafe/bar that has been here for a while. I started hanging there when I was 16. The owners are sweet, providing a safe space for queers, minorities and alternative kids. Love where it’s located in the heart of Ledras.

The walls surround Nicosia in a star shaped design. Originally defence walls from the Middle Ages, they were rebuilt by the Venetians to protect themselves from the Ottomans. I would follow the walls, and walk around Nicosia, the visuals along the wall reveal Nicosia in it’s chic, pure and decadent demure. 

My friend, Cypriot diva Chrysa Gregoriou, runs this shop of perfumes, serums, candles and aromatic healing products she makes with her own hands, using herbs she finds in mountains and in the Cypriot countryside. Walk from her shop around Nicosia, downtown to the old town. Here you can entertain yourself observing modernist sandstone houses and buildings from the 70’s, luxurious psychedelic designs, a few that have been sadly neglected.

A sci-fi-looking church designed by Neoptolemos Michaelides, right next to
my childhood home. The church bells were the soundtrack of my life. Do not
go at night as right-wing teenagers hang around and they not a vibe. During
the day, it’s nice to get a mushroom koupa and Freddy espresso from zorbas
next door and sit there. There are not many people unless there is a memorial
or a funeral. It’s quiet

A Middle Eastern forest that I grew up playing and walking around in. It has helped unlock mine (and my parents') thoughts and ideas plenty of times while we've been jogging and walking. It’s quite big and diverse in terms of plants and trees, changes dramatically from winter to summer. There is a big lake with ducks, turtles and frogs. Love the frog sounds. Also a lot of beautiful cats.

Historic street filled with memories of lust and after hours of my teenage years — palm trees, go to bar Ermou Dihoro to grab a beer, walk around the boarder to observe our beautiful, chic, melancholic city.

Traditional Cypriot Tavern, with Cypriot meze, so fucking tasty.

Incredible archeological museum that displays many artefacts from island excavations, from pottery to sculptures from the ancient civilisations.

A queer cafe-bar and community hub in the Turkish-Cypriot administered side of Nicosia.

Traditional Cypriot pastries and sweets, like old school pumpkin pies named "kolokotes".  

Twice as Nice

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