Soda Plains is Alexis Chan, a Hong Kong born, 

 based artist whose music resists easy categorisation.

With releases on labels like PAN and Yegorka, he’s been active in the experimental electronic music scene for over a decade.

To celebrate ESEA Heritage Month, Soda Plains will be debuting “Fortress”, a new collaboration with Scottish Chinese artist Lvra, as a live show at the Margins United festival in London on September 28. The event, taking place at venue Earth in Hackney and hosted by 

, aims to redefine how Asian culture is celebrated in the UK.

Ahead of his performance, we asked Soda Plains to tell us about his favourite places to eat in his hometown Berlin, from Yemeni restaurants to where to find the best tacos.

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The city’s polarising magnetism has created a pulsating haven that, for centuries now, has been host to just about any imaginable life’s design – a weird, erratic ecosystem, a barren island insufferably obsessed with itself, an urban enigma that is either loathed or loved. There is no middle here. The ubiquitous juxtapositions of a past, present, and future Berlin are integral to both the city’s charms and blemishes, the two of which often intersect, wherever you go, whatever you look at.

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Intro

Cultural History

The land of milk and honey and Döner and Currywurst (and lots of vegan stuff too)

Food & Drink

Hoods

Being Queer in Berlin

Race

Drugs

Accomodation

Walk the walk, talk the talk, but consider U-Bahn and S-Bahn

Transportation

Solo Travel

Don’t scream, don’t shout, but let it all out

Etiquette & Cultural Values

The Police

Safety

Spots

Berlin's Nightlife: A Guide to the Best Clubs

Guides

Local Guides From Our Community

How to Get Stuck Into Berlin's Art Scene 

Where to Eat Out 

Shop the Latest Fashion Trends in Berlin

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Explore Berlin

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A rare Yemeni restaurant, specialising in slow cooked meat and fresh breads. Can be hectic getting a table, but nice to see that type of bustle in Berlin.

Restaurant

Jemenisitsches

Best lamachun in the south. Pile them high or enjoy with the lamb's head soup. Otherwise there is a long list of grill options, but in general affordable and quick.

Örnek Lahmacun Grillhaus

Primarily for rare plants, Rooty’s proprietor is very knowledgeable and helpful and you may be lucky to get an impromptu workshop. You can preorder ramen or enjoy their ujikintoki affogato (matcha ice cream + red bean paste).

Rooty Cafe 

A great neighbourhood spot serving spicy Chinese food, also a selection of fresh dumplings, authentic taste. Not typical opening hours, but gives the clue of its family run/homemade vibe.

Wunderbar 

Berlin and tacos are never words that you should see together but the blunt riz of the owner reveals all. A simple menu, Cactus, Carnitas and Chicken. A casual place with very fresh tortillas and wavy marguerites if you are so inclined.

Tortilleria Mexa Berlin

Staying in Friedrichshain, Larb Koi is where I would spend fancy money. Pork Belly, Octopus curry, salmon salad, take your pick but expect spice and high quality.

Larb Koi Krossener

Back home to Neukölln, and despite the price wars of the rising (South Korean) Melona (once rare but now found in all spatis), it is impossible to not mention some Berlin home-made ice cream. I usually combo pistachio and cherry w/ poppy seed but all sorts of things happen here, sorbets even.

Gelateria Mos Eisley

 to highlight the businesses that are changing the cultural fabric of four key cities: from London to New York via Paris and Berlin. Here, we have Tsellot Melesse on her favourite cultural spaces in Berlin.

Tsellot Melesse is a Berlin-born film and casting director, host, presenter and the founder of the outdoors club Black Canary. As someone who’s born and raised in the German capital, Melesse knows its hidden gems well.

Having grown up in the city, she rejected the outdoors only to later realise it felt inaccessible to her. She sought to change this and founded Black Canary, an exploratory outdoors club for Black FLINTA (an acronym for female, lesbian, inter, non-binary, trans and agender people). Her passion for the outdoors bleeds into her travel tips too, and she recommends seeing Berlin by bike.

The mythology of Berlin leans into its liberal and fiercely independent ethos. “Independent and locally-run businesses are vital for Berlin's culture,” Melesse says, “because they reflect the city's creative spirit and individuality. These businesses also create a sense of community and pride among us locals.”

She adds, “Generally I’d say people in Berlin are not so much into the big, flashy and glossy, but cherish more local, unique and independent offers.” Below, she shows us around the capital, mapping out the spaces she would cycle to in Berlin.

 to access all four travel guides and more.

Squarespace

Store X offers a unique blend of fashion, art and culture in one space. It mirrors Berlin's artistic and fashion-forward identity by providing a platform where creatives from all over the world meet. Their curated selections are one of a kind. I'd recommend exploring their record collection; grab a coffee right there and vibe. Most of the time a DJ there is spinning records. This might be the only time where it’s OK to walk up to the DJ and ask to play a record.

YaMe NumNums mirrors Berlin's love for international cuisine, offering a slice of Japan in the heart of the city, reflecting its multicultural and diverse culinary landscape. It stands out for its authentic homemade udon. I mean udon by itself is already insane, but homemade udon? Come on! Also love the owner – real Berliner, female, BIPOC! I'd suggest trying their signature udon noodles. My favourite is miso, sends you right to heaven.

The magic of YaMe NumNums lies in its ability to transport diners to Japan through flavours, offering a sense of tradition and authenticity in every bite. It serves as a culinary bridge, connecting the local community to the essence of Japanese food culture, contributing to Berlin's culinary diversity.

The magic of Silo lies in its ability to bring a slice of Australian brunch culture to Berlin, fostering a lively and welcoming atmosphere. Its vibrant atmosphere and delicious, unique brunch options are exceptional. Their varied menu and quality coffee make it a go-to spot for a lively morning experience. It’s more than a hangover spot! But also incredibly bomb when hungover. I'd suggest trying their unique twist on classic brunch items like the avocado toast or their top-notch coffee that comes from a local roastery.

It’s also located in one of Berlin’s loveliest neighbourhoods, so grab brunch on Sunday there and continue the day at the flea market nearby or head over to Berghain like a true Berliner on Sunday morning.

Effy offers a trendy, artsy approach to nail care, providing a unique and creative
experience. Her attention to detail and trendy nail designs are commendable. She’s also real good on short nails – my personal favourite.

Effy mirrors Berlin's creative and artistic side by providing a space for self-expression through nail art and trendy designs, reflecting the city's avant-garde and innovative nature. The uniqueness of Effy's lies in her caring nature. It really is on- on-one time and pure relaxation – she does not only take care of your nails but also of your mind. You’ll leave relaxed!

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Independent Businesses in Berlin Selected by Tsellot Melesse

California-born and Berlin-based artist Christine Sun Kim spotlights the visual spaces you should visit in the German capital.

Born to Korean parents and raised in California, it's in 2008 that Christine Sun Kim first made the visit to Berlin. The German capital inspired her to work with sound as a medium, and the city later became her permanent place of residence. Through her practice, Christine explores the politics of sound and how it's used as a social currency. Motifs that often crop up in her work include musical notation and American Sign Language (ASL). This is implemented through drawings, paintings, performance, large-scale murals and videos; all of which have seen her exhibited in galleries around the world, from Los Angeles to Beijing.

, and runs until 21 May 2023. Conceived during her residency at the arts hub, Christine has created four paintings based on sign as shapes, focusing on the physical movement of the language and its edges. As the exhibition is currently underway, we caught up with the visual and sound artist in London. Here, she selects her favourite art spaces in her home city, Berlin.

It’s a former power plant and they do concerts really well. I’ve been there a few times on invitation from my friends who performed at Atonal Festival as LABOUR.

A well curated exhibition of the Boros collection in a huge bunker that changes every four years – what more do you want? Just make sure to book ahead of time.


It was one of the first places I visited when I came to Berlin. I’ve been to the memorials in Washington, D.C. so many times but nothing compares to the scale of this.

A residency programme and building in Wedding. I really enjoy attending my friends’ open studios, performances and rehearsals there. Just generally good vibes. Now my good friend Isabel Parkes works there, be sure to say hi.

Perfect, colourful place to visit when Berlin gets really grey during the winter.

Christine Sun Kim on Berlin’s Art Spaces

WizTheMC is a German rapper, based in Berlin who is creating music that is personal, vulnerable and relatable. An exciting addition to the world of alternative rap, WizTheMC is definitely a one to watch. 

Berlin is renowned for its multicultural food scene with the doner kebab, originally a Middle Eastern dish, becoming one its most popular street foods. Its large migrant population has only increased owing to a relaxing stance towards asylum seekers and refugees. This has had a marked impact on the city’s culinary landscape with entire streets dedicated to Arab food and massive quarters boasting the best Turkish and Kurdish doner kebab. As a result, Berlin’s hummus spots are unmatched and below, WizTheMC will be introducing us to his favourites across the city!

It’s easy to find good food on Sonnenallee, but finding great food is much harder. This one's a Lebanese take on hummus making, and they are doing the thing. The new white-tiled, highly-illuminated LED lit interior may not be the most inviting but the massive plates of mixed food + hummus will hit every spot possible.

Another Sonnenallee steal. This one for the shawarma lover. Tell them you want the Arabisch. All will be good in the world.

Not a hummus-specialty, but doing some of the best shawarma this side of the Spree. The Lebanese family who runs this spot are incredibly lovely, and if you smile there, they slip in a piece of fried halloumi just where you take your first bite.

The craziness of Schlesi can drive anybody mad, but take a step away just here for a rejuvenating hummus bowl. Add a few falafels balls and you’re laughing. Shoutout my boy Anwar, for him the Kafta bowl is 'a cathartic experience'.

Where to Eat Out in Berlin, with Soda Plains